Lca bolt stuck in bushing. No amount of torching would help.
Lca bolt stuck in bushing I got the nut off the control arm bolt, which passes all the way through both arms, and attempted to push the bolt through. Should ride 100x better now. Bushing has been released. Eventually I had to cut the bolt from between the LCA and the fork on both sides. And the bushing I got from Advance Auto Parts, it was MOOG brand. I spent well over 100 On my 'O8's I replaced the lower arms after ~11-12 years, the vertical bolt through the bushing had rusted/seized to the bushing core, and I used small cutoff wheels to cut through the yoke, and shell of the bushing; also, a ~3/4" section of the threads where they engaged, were rusted out, but the threads on the portion extending PAST the top nut were still good, so, when I put the bolt Strut Bolt Stuck. Thread starter Gandy Dancer; Start date Aug 31 If we are talking about the single strut bolt at the bottom of the LCA just cut the bolt off with a cutoff wheel or similar. Didn't have that issue with my Liberty (slightly different bushing that prevents the bolt from rusting to the bushing sleeve. As I was torquing down the bolts (after you lower the truck back to the ground) a couple of the bolts never seemed to get tight. You have a few options. If you still cant pry it, you will need to add a small socket to the other end to push further. I tried to loose othe two LCA bushing bolts, expecting the worst. Been there, done that. In any case, I found used LCA's with no rust (from an online salvage yard in California). Post Reply Why coating with Never-Seize WILL NOT WORK to prevent the alignment bolts on a Toyota IFS from freezing up. 7 limited 2005 but on the Lower control arm, where the shock connect, theres a bolt and a bushing. Push down on the LCA. I need to remove the bolt that is holding the spindle on to the ski saddle. The alignment cam bolts going through the lower c Dark Mode; Light Mode; Menu Log in So I'm doing my LCA bushings and I replaced my strut assemblies about 6 months ago when I did my lift. Spray Rust Penetrant and Let It Soak Overnight. at first i figured it was the bushing, it Here are the SuperPro SPF4863K LCA bushing that was just released. Being a cheap SOB by nature, I didn't listen. The problem is that bolt gets seized inside the sleeve of the LCA bushing. Then all you have to replace is the bushing and a $2 bolt. I already took apart the other side just fine. The second time around, we removed the bolt holding the shock to the fork, disconnected everything from the LCA, and we were able to sneak the tower down past the UCA and just pull it straight up out of the fork. Once you can move the control arm separate from the inner sleeve of the bushing, use whatever you used to cut the control arm, to cut a strip out of the outer part of the bushing. In this case, you can still win the battle using a C-Clamp press, (a hand held ball joint style press that can be add to the labor the possibility of seized alignment bolts (the inner LCA bolts), if your vehicle has been in a rust producing region anyway when we tried to do an alignment this year on my '08 (from the North East), the bolts couldn't be turned, regardless of length of breaker bar used, size of person pushing or amount of penetrating fluid + time used, finally got them off 2002 Focus ZX5, rear LCA to knuckle bolt, so assuming class 10. amazon. LCA bushings are for a different day, once new CAM bolts are in . The steering rack is moved as far back as I can get it without disconnecting PS lines and the LCA bolt still won’t clear. There is a video on You tube of trying to loosen control arm bolts in bushings (wasn't necesarily for a If you've replaced your LCA bushings, please reply with some pictures!!! Before and After Step Directory (Jumps in Current Tab) Parts, Tools, and Consumables; Step 1: Jack up the Vehicle; Step 2: Loosening Bolts; Step 3: Cut Out Old Cam Bolts and Remove LCA; Step 4: Remove Ball Joint; Step 5: Press Out Old Bushings; Step 6: Remove Old Bushing A final note, 1 of my 3 stuck bushings also involved a stuck mounting bolt. https://www. My bushings were toasted. Dark Mode; Light Mode; Menu Log in 9. With LCA bushing bolt issue Hoping someone can give me some advice on this one. Discussion in '2nd Gen. I still had to cut the bolts mounting the LCA to the subframe and the trailing arm because they were stuck in the bushing The 16mm bolt broke off from bushing carrier when I was removing the lower control arm on 2003 325i. One thing you might try, and it helped with my removal. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by 16Tacos, Apr 17, 2015. So the bolt is removed, and I torched away the innards of the bushing, but the outer cylinder of the bushing is, like really stuck. Jump to Latest 2K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by MaintMech May 25, 2011. This problem happens often on Hondas, especially with the front lower strut attachment where the fork meets the lower control arm. Only one of my four bushings did this, the others were more quiet. rkmootha Discussion starter. I got the nut off with PB blaster, a propane torch, and a breaker bar, but the bolt won't go through the bushing. I am trying to remove this bolt, it will rotate in the threads of the nut on the other side without a problem. To my surprise, the bolts came out on first try, and don't have much corrosion. Personally I've had a bolt stuck so tight a hydraulic power pack could not push it out. I soaked it in WD-40 and tried to pull on it from every angle with quite If your cam bolt is siezed, that means that the bolt is now one with the metal sleeve inside the bushing and you will not be able to slide it out or even force it out. 1 2. to/h/cnI/Are you replacing a control arm, but one of the through bolts is stuck in place? Len is here with some quick Removing the bushing from the control arm wasn't as easy as in the video of the 50s kid, after tweaking mine for 10 seconds outer layer broke and the inner metal piece got stuck on the control arm. Make sure the lca is easily insertable into the subframe. True Discussion starter. 9. Now that both #2 suspension arms are in place, bolt up the front suspension brace that was unbolted in step 2. LCA Bolt stuck in bushing. I've removed the bolt, and that backing plate, but it appears that core/sleeve for the cam bolt has frozen itself inside the Lower Control Arm. R. Then slightly tighten the bolt head, not the nut. Drill a Pilot Hole: Carefully drill a pilot hole in the center of the bolt head. As it's reset around a 180 degree orientation, the LCA moves in or out, this in turn causes rear toe-in to change, along with rear camber. I removed a bolt holding power steering hoses to the frame below the battery. With a hammer, move the torsion bar anchor arm towards the back of the vehicle to expose the BOLT of the LCA (Do NOT attempt to remove the nut; it will NOT come loose because the nut has 4 indentations that bites into the LCA and will not rotate) Remove the BOLT (24 mm, 170 ft-lb): Do NOT attempt to remove the nut. 11. One to hold the large piece of metal and one to hit it with the hammer driving the bushing in. Basically the bushing sleeve fuses into one with the LCA bolt. If you have unfortunately I don't have great access to the bolt to cut it out. ) is to "burn" out that rubber bushing, so thats what i'm going to do. All 4 sized on my 05 Tundra. To the OP odds are the bolt is seized up in the bushing of the LCA. Jump to Latest 21 - 34 of 34 Posts. Which means at most ill only have to buy one LCA, which leaves some money for brakes which i also hadnt planned on being an issue. And I have a 20 ton shop press and all the other tools needed to do the work. li Arc . (Since the outer bushing shell is in solid contact with the arm and bushing inner shell is bolted firmly against the hub, the rubber bushing itself 'twists' one way with suspension compression, then the other way when the suspension hangs in full 'droop'. Can't loosen the nut to get any more washers on. Adjusting rear camber can change toe in, but that is not the problem. You're going to pry the control arm down, around the part of the rotor, and towards the front bushing mount. problem: the lca bolt connecting the lca to the subframe of the car seems to be stuck. you could drill and tap a grease fitting in the lca, drill the bushing tubes, and pump it full of grease a couple times a year. 2 cuts or 1 cut and a pry bar, remove the control arm completely. The bolt must be seized in the bushing. Ball joint to LCA: Sway bar bushing bolts: Sway bar link bolts: Tie rod nut: Inner CV joint Triple square bolts: 12 point axle nut: REAR Top shock bolts: Bottom shock bolt: Large, rear bushing bolts: UhOh When in the air some bushings are hanging down from the loaded position. This time, I did. The bushing only goes in one way, so you The bolt securing the rear/compliance bushing is stuck spinning in place inside the nut molded to the subframe. Best tool for stuck bolts I've found is a half inch drive chisel Well my alignment is no longer able to be adjusted due to the cam bolts being frozen in the bushings. Cleaned up everything, used a giant socket and dead blow to install the bushing into the LCA, greased and put anti seize on new bolt, reinstalled everything and was good to go. Doesn't matter if the bushing is solid, you're cutting on either side of the bushing inside the frame so you can basically slide the bushing out. They freeze in the bushing sleeve. This process requires precision and care to avoid damaging the bushing. I have the remaining bolt stuck in the frame and not know what to do next. However, the bolt appears to be completely fused with the control arm bushing and therefore simply the entire arm moves. 77 posts · Joined 2011 Add to quote; Only show this user #1 · May 25, 2011. But the middle part of the bolt is stuck/fused with the inner part of the bushing so when I turn the bolt the bushing turns. The parts aren't cheap and the job is a PITA. How come the fork bushing bolt was fused together so tight? At this point you'll have the LCA with the center part of the bolt seized in the bushing. So now the plan is obviously all new lca nuts, bolts and alignment spacers, new strut bolts etc, new In the past people had trouble with the Energy Suspension version of the LCA bushings, but the Prothane assemble as if they were one bushing. It's seized in the bushing, so I can unthread it all the way but not pull it out. Instead it bent the frame LCA mounts. Movement Test: Try to loosen the bolt with a wrench or socket. This side doesn't come out of the LCA bushing. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolt. And now that they turn that pretty much means the bushings are toast. Don't take that from the truck!!! yes I pushed the bushing out of an aluminum lower control arm with no problem and then push the new one in also Trying to replace the bushings in my rear controls arms, but this bolt is stuck in the bushing. mechanicjon, Dec 8, 2019 #11. I picked up some new bolts & nuts @ the dodge dealer yesterday, picking up new lower strut / lower control arm bushings This will not work. Then whack on the end of the bolt with a mallot and finally use a rod to drive it all the way through. This nut is no longer captive, so I can neither tighten nor remove the bolt! so I'm stuck guessing at what's up there by what I can see (just the edge of the assembly) and what I can feel (and it's not easy getting Concerning the bolts stuck in the rubber bushings. On the other side, the bolt that goes through the clevis and the bushing is stuck solid. This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. As any of you who have done your homework on this site know, the cam bolts in the Xterra lower control arm mounts can be b*tch to remove. Apr 14, 2014. I started thinking about cutting them off, but, here is what I realized. I know that there's an extensive thread on polyurethane replacement bushings like whiteline, etc. I could remove the 19mm nut just fine. so, now i just have the one caliper bolt and the one driver lca bolts that are stuck. Otherwise I’d think about how long it takes to go buy a saw. I believe the rust mended the bushing and the bolt together so in todays video we show how the simple process of removing a rear shock can turn into a bigger problem. Pressing out the LCA bushings entails application of both force and heat. There's also the bottle jack trick but it won't work on super stuck a bushing is 3 parts. I'd try it in this order: 1. No way it was coming out. I think my upper ball joints aren't doing so hot, but I'll get to those in a few weeks after I recover from this pain in the ***. I've found quite a few uses for my 20 ton HF press. Take a torch and melt that bushing out. It is now half way out, but I'm at the end of the threads. I have one side done and the other side the old hanger is off. the link for control arm bushing shows a pic of the upper bushing, but nevertheless, there are pirate parts available for cheap. This from TN if bushings/bolts are seized use PRG's removal tool or a torch and burn out the rubber sleeves holding the stuck oem bushing in. There simple isn't enough room to cycle the ratchet since This is the informational video, the demonstration link can be found at the end of this description. I believe the sleeve is frozen into the bushing, which from what i've read is very common on Tundras/Tacomas/Sequoias. I would get a 12 ton press from Harbor Freight ($130, $6 S&H), and do the bushings yourself. This is due to the front bushing and bolts being above the subframe, thus you can't reach the bolts from the bottom. Apr 17, 2015 at 10:29 AM #1 #1. G. Use a torch on the bolt (30 seconds-ish). The front bolt just keeps spinning and seems to be stuck in the bushing (It's not backing out anymore). DONT hit the bushing directly. I'm repairing my frame now with an ART safety bac trailing arm frame section, and can't get the LCA bolt free at all. Good bye. Regarding "the Bolt" I compressed the spring, installed it on the strut, slid it into the clevis fork (which was installed in the vehicle) and tightened all the bolts. If its stuck in there just leave it. Tried lots of heat, pb, and it's too narrow to get in there and cut it out. Can’t get a hammer in the to hammer it. Not a fun job. When I let go of the pressure, the bushing rotates back into place and takes the bolt with it. Press in a new bushings and bolt up with replacement hardware. If this caused the bolt to break in 2, tighten the nut on the other side of the bolt The passenger side front LCA back side bolt sleeve is stuck in the bushing? Can't for the life of me get it out!!!!! I've seen other videos where it has to be cut out of the bushing, but that's another tool purchase that would have to be made. mrblaine Crew Member. Only tighten LCA bolts after everything is put back together and loaded. I tried using a prybar to pry down the hub assembly as much as possible to see if Control arm bushing bolt threads stripped! Jump to Latest 25K views 14 replies 14 participants last post by ibid. But that's because the sleeves are turning inside the bushings. General Mustang Tech another stuck LCA bolt *got it!* Jump to Latest 21 - 33 of 33 Posts. The bushing housing is aluminum so not a good idea to use the wrong tool. uk/shop/davesterl What I don't want is needing to resort to cutting them (and the LCA bushings) out with the saw-zaw. T. I’ve tried hammering it out but there’s just not enough clearance. Again, dont waste another $85 for something that will not get that Lower control arm bolt is stuck. The bushing and rest of the assembly is trapped altogether by the bolt. If I cut the bolt's head/nut, it will release the rod, yes, but the bolt's body will remain in the knuckle The whole LCA can be ordered relatively cheap from rockauto and will come with a full set of all bushings. Tacomas (2005-2015) ' started by mbrogz3000 , Feb 21, 2018 . Just use chisel and hammer it towards the middle where the bolt would be. Debating cutting the bolt head off and trying to punch it out Just snap the bolts and buy them from Honda for a few bucks and then either drill the bolts out of the LCAs or drill press the entire bolt/bushing and replace it. geofret Discussion starter 5 posts "Design height" should be all about what position that bolt should be tightened. It only took a month for a brand new bolt to re-seize in that bushing. More saw work and less hammering with the chisel and punch would have helped keep the tube in good shape. If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's post on the subject. Now is the part that will take some tweaking to get around the rotor a bit. It seems to be seized to the bushing. I have searched and watched videos. On the other side I cut through bolt with a Sawzall. This will pinch the sleeve between the ears on the control arm and hold it firm. Tap the Rusted Bolt Loose with a Hammer. There's an extra inch of bolt thread above the captive nut; get in there and sawzall that off as in todays video we show how the simple process of removing a rear shock can turn into a bigger problem. That is stuck in the LCA bushing sleeve so I can't pull the cam adjuster out. LCA bolts - 130 ft. I would guess the force exerted on the bolt is 1 ton at least. However the nut on this bolt is frozen so I can't loose nor tighten it. The rubber part around the steel insert will burn, and you'll be able to knock it all out with a flat screw driver or similar tool. In the photo you posted in post 10, the guy is using a long screwdriver to lever the LCA down so he can get the shock itself out, but same idea. then I twisted vertical bushing bolt outward to line up with hole in LCA Bushing Bolt Stuck! Jump to Latest 743 views 2 replies 2 participants last post by geofret May 30, 2009. That one was a pain. If anyone has better LCA Bushings and Bolts. , but I'd rather just stick If the bolt is seized this bad is the bushing destroyed? If I heat it, will that destroy the bushing? I can't find a replacement bushing online & other similar topics talked about having to replace the whole lower control arm. a center sleeve, the rubber inserts and the bolt. . If so, you might just want to replace them if you get a bolt stuck in one of them. This bolt needs to move in Problem #2: Toyota says you should not re-use any of the nuts/bolts to hold these on. To get good access, I had cut the control arm off first such that only the small sections that connect to the bolts remained on the car. I am ready to install but the bolt/ bushing in the leaf spring will not come out. When it releases the pressure, it can make a thud noise. It was not absolutely necessary to remove the clevis bolt in Thanks for posting on r/MechanicAdvice!This is just a reminder to review the rules. The 2pc. Nuts are already off, just the bolts are stuck in the bushings I’ve been soaking it in breakfree every day and banging on it with a sledge or running an impact on it, but got nothing more then turning the bushing a tiny bit on one side. I did actually get the bolt out, but damaged the inner metal tube in the process. Not even the impact could make it budge. If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, If it won't come out with a sledge, then it's likely frozen in the bushing. 5) here's where dexterity comes in. Save Share Reply Quote Like. Then work the others out. All the rubber from the bushing broke loose so it just spins. bushings are elongated so make note of how they are oriented based on 1 and You can rent a sawzall to cut the bolt much faster. You could spray rust penetrant into the area and let the bolt soak overnight or even for a couple nights. Camber bolt stuck! Jump to Latest Maybe take a mallot, rubber or inertia, to the LCA bushing area to try to break it loose a bit. Sometimes they even sieze to the metal bushing inside of the lower control arm. 1)soak bolts in penetrating oil and let the c Yes. I think I'll prolly cut the bolt like you suggested and then knock off the welded nut if I can and then replace that nut with a new one. Metal C clamp and a large Socket that is bigger than the head of the bolt. I made the mistake of not having extra cam bolts, so I couldn't and have to try again next weekend. The bushing begins to smolder right before it releases from the LCA. Occasionally, these are meant to be removed in a specific order. My problem is with the back of the car. I’ve got an 08 ford escape 6 cylinder 3. I cleaned up the bushings and drove the other new frozen bearing in clean without much issue. Since the bushing sleeves are extremely thin, using the exact-size bushing driver is critical in order to prevent the driver from Im in the middle of installing my Fabtech 6" lift and im at the part of pulling out my LCAs. we run into a problem with the lower controll arm bolt ( LCA) is siezed to the shock If you have a new bolt and new LCA/bushing, your fastest solution is a sawzall. You can try to tap it loose with a hammer, but this might not loosen the bolt from the rubber. So I cut the arm off and the LCA bolt is solid in the If you have a new bolt and new LCA/bushing, your fastest solution is a sawzall. If all else fails, you may have to resort to drilling and extracting the bolt. I would try to get the bolt turning; if it turns you can drive it out with a punch and sledge. 1. You'll have to disconnect the front shock, steering arm, lower ball joint, and stabilizer end links. So while the Taco is on the jack stands, I am thinking it would be best to just change them out now. The construction of this mechanism is such that all three bushings are embedded in the knuckle (not in the rods). I managed to get the head to turn, just barely and with a 4' pipe extension on the ratchet. If the adjuster bolt is frozen then it is the rear link. The forward LCA bolt runs into the radiator housing, so the aft LCA How To Remove a Bolt Seized in a Bushing Sleeve. Also if your having trouble with a rusty lower control arm ball joint castle nut you can purchase them fro Put a jack under the lca. Jump to Latest 3K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by bigjdog84 Nov 6, 2002 Front Lower Control Arm stuck bushing bolt (2002 Camry xle) Jump to Latest 21 - 35 of 35 Posts. This should push the bolt a little bit, until the threads are flush. 2012 Mazda 2, front LCA bolt is stuck in bushing. They just get stuck AF. Sounds normal to me. I had soacked the bolt and nut in penetrating oil overnight. It's totally frozen in the bushing. Not my video. All clear, ready for new bushings. Find the items that are used on the Dave Sterl channel in the Amazon shop. Frozen, Looking for ideas on how to get this out. General Tech Forums. The ideal tool to remove this is a 1+3/4" hole saw with duct tape wrapped around the pilot drill bit to match the inner diameter of the bush to keep the saw The bolt that goes through the Front Lower Control Arm Rear Bushing goes up into a nut that should be captive in the frame. Bump! I think its time to pick up a grinder, spent a whole day just dismantling the passanger side for my titan swap only to have both LCA bolts seized along with the LCA ball joint which was stuck in the spindle and took about 200 hits with the sledge and a ton of torch time. I read somewhere to try torque the nut back down. 12 mm bolt and socket ground flat with a bench grinder to make and adjustable spacer on the other side (outside) of the LCA. won't budge. The best solution I found was to buy a new/used LCA. I cut the bolt out from both ends to separate it from the strut and strut arm. NOTE. Rear LCA Question. I think the LCA bushings are still available. tried loosening and tightening many times and still won't budge. Once I had the LCA's lowered at the inner ends, I was faced with removing the bushings with part of the bolts stuck in them. Many people already Had to cut the bolts on both front lca’s as they were frozen in the bushing. (Note that the bolt is NOT stuck to the bushing sleeve--it's spinning in the molded nut but not extracting. Pvt-Public Those ears turned like that does put some strain on it as mounted and twisting the LCA to fit the rear bushing. In this video I show my methods of removing one of these stuck bolts going through the rear lower control arm on my 2012 Honda Odyssey. Any ideas? There is!! the pass side lca cam nuts and bolts came loose easy peasy! Like super easy. Just checking to make sure you're asking about the front (horizontal) LCA bolt, and not the rear (vertical) one, correct? The reason I ask is that for all of the LCAs If it's frozen IN the bushing, depending on how much is frozen to it, you could pound all day with no result. What do you think? I've seen a few threads on replacing the lower control arm, all of which say that the rear bolt is a complete pain to remove. The LCA bushings are already pushing up. I hope you have a friend with a heavy press for the bushings. Can’t be stuck if it’s turned to liquid🤷🏻♂️ Reply All the hammering and prying and heating and punching resulted in no movement of the bolt in the bushing at all, and any I'm replacing the LCA in a 2005 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Mar 17, 2019 I dont think I need new CA's but if there is a history of stuck bolts I do plan to remove and reinstall Rear Toe-in bolt seized. You can loosen the LCA bolts, which loosen the bushing tension, or you can take a long crowbar and just lever the LCA down. if the stock center bored which is fixed to the rubber, has seperated from the rubber inserts then the bolt is just spinning freely inside the bushingsEXCEPT that the metal inner sleeve is larger then the hole of the bolt and won't fit through it. Jim Mesthene. This can be a real pain in the ass, key is patience and the right tools, in the right order. replace with PRG BUSHINGS. ) The front LCA bolt was NOT seized to the bushing sleeve as I indicated in my post above so they came out easily. There is a steel flange on the bush that must be removed before the bush can be pressed out toward the front of the LCA, refer to Figure 11. Wonder what's so special about these besides the seat for the air springs. Does anyone have advice for removing it? Thanked 103 Times in 94 Posts. Reinstall Bolts That Surround the Stuck Bolt/Nut – Sometimes, a number of bolts in an area will hold a part on. Here's a shot of the OEM Bushing ring stuck in the LCA after the rubber is burned out of it. ) The front bolt seems to be stuck inside the metal sleeve inside the bushing. OutbackXT05. Use two people for that purpose. Fortunately, I was able to pick up a new LCA and bolt and take the van to a mechanic down the road to have them cut the bolt out and replace. It was also stuck to the captive nut, and the whole shebang was too tall to pop up, over, and out. The OEM LCA bolts get serviced as needed and are not frozen by rust. A month later, I blew a strut so I ordered a set of Bilsteins. Help Alignment issues - Camber bolts frozen. I read 100 ft*lbs for the LCA bolt It's difficult to get a 1/2 inch torque wrench to get to even 100 ft-lbs when the vehicle is on the ground. NOW MY STORY ON After spending hours and hours trying different things to remove my stuck control arm bolts, this method worked for me. Posted December 24, 2011. And you still need to rent a rod end set to remove your LBJs/tie-rod ends. The LCA bolts do not freeze in the threads of the nut/bolt. So I cut through the bolt at the bottom and top of said bushing. I got the other one out. Used Crown replacement lca’s. replace with I can't get the LCA out because the bolt that holds the front arm bushing is stuck inside the front arm bushing. The metal part of the bushing is seized. Grand Cherokee 5. I have had this problem with 3 Tegs that I have wrenched on. Heat is supplied by a torch, and force can be applied with either a 20-ton press (recommended) or a bottle jack. I've done ton's of searches and spent well over a few hours both here, other forums, google searches on Tacoma/FJ/4R, youtube videos, etc to find easiest, cheapest and fastest way. The bolt that holds the strut to the LCA is Problem: I attempted to do an LCA bushing replacement job myself on my 04 4WD, but got stuck because I can't get the steering rack moved out of the way enough to get a good grip on the rear LCA cam bolt. Get a ratchet strap and attach the LCA on the side I used a Milwaukee M18 impact wrench with a swivel socket on one side - bolt came right off. Does anyone have experienced this and any suggestion? All Last Resort: Drilling and Extraction. Moisture and corrosion seized the bolt in that bushing, so whenever I'd try to turn the bolt, I'd be putting torque on the sleeve and the bushing as well. if bushings/bolts are seized use PRG's removal tool or a torch and burn out the rubber sleeves holding the stuck oem bushing in. Then turn the bolt and it will break the bolt loose from the sleeve. The sleeve is not only cheap metal, it's not even a full sleeve. I've taken the nut off, but can't get the bolt out, and it's likely that it On the passenger side, the two main bolts on my lower control arm unscrew just fine, but I am having issues trying to turn the eccentric bolt for control arm adjustment. On my driver's side (which is worse for access) the LCA bushing seized to the bolt. So cutting the nut off the back will not help him. It's just a round piece of metal, there's an open seam along the length. For the INSTRUC OEM LCA Camber (CAM) Alignment Bolts Removal (Frozen/Rusted), Best methods? Discussion in ' 2nd Gen. I tried I was able to get the cam bolts and nuts off, and the cams can move, but the sleeve is seized in the LCA bushing. I never ran into problems removing the strut clevis fork bolt from the LCA. Looks like it really does need to be pressed in. Clearly, the bolt shaft is stuck inside the sleeves inside the bushings. There's some people in the club with presses to get the old bushings out and press the polys in. To give me more room, I have removed the sway bar and unbolted the steering rack. No amount of torching would help. Spindle laying down on it's side. So when I saw it was stuck and the BFH wouldn't budge it, out came the sawzall. so im trying to install an asr bar and a 23mm sway. at least one new bushing (or just replace the whole LCA), new OEM cam and anti seize. If you torque them in that position the rubber wants to be in The dilemma is the frozen lower clevis bolts in the lower control arm bushing. I’ve tried using my ball joint tool, but there’s also not enough clearance. I have a 99 323i, 104kmi, i replaced front lower control arms and bushings this weekend. There is a tab on the bottom that holds them on even with the bolts out, so you may need to use a floor jack to raise the LCA a few inches so that you can remove the It's the CAM sleeve the alignment nut is slotted into that makes the adjustment. Just wondering if you guys have any tips for getting those cam bolts out on the axle end of the LCAs. However, all of the bolts that go into the rear LCAs are stuck, except the ones connecting the shock fork to the lca. 14264 posts · Joined 2006 Add to quote; Only show this user now I've got the exact same problem but with the control arm link bushing bolt. Post Reply. I was going to sawzall the LCA bolts and then swap this on and then install the SPC kit to avoid the hassle of changing bushings on the LCA. click/copy. However, the rear toe bolts were frozen, as a matter of fact after cutting them off they were nice metallographic joints – no amount of force was going to free these up. For frozen bushings or fasteners trapped in a hole with access to both sides, as in an A-arm, and without a press, consider using a DIY puller. Joined Nov 20, 2015 Messages 30,459 Location Quail Valley, CA. Notice that the top and bottom is slant cut to make pressing easier. I have 4 bolts that I have been able to remove the nuts from, but the bolt itself is rusted fast to the metal sleeve inside of the old dead bushings on the lower and toe control arms. Step 6: Removing the rear bush from the LCA is a bit more involved. Ground off the head of the stuck one and tightened the nut to try and pull it through. If/when it comes to that Diablo blades are your friend. But I could not put the new bushing in. The adjustment bolt that goes into this sleeve has an outside diameter of ~13mm. Otherwise I’d think about how long it takes to go buy a 3) insert bolt and screw in lca bolt until it catches 4) when bolt catches, pull on bolt and pin the nut with the pick. we run into a problem with the lower controll arm bol This bushing and bolt were stuck. lbs. Front LCA Bolt Stuck! Just did mine , bolt was turning with the bushing too , cut on each side of the bushing with oxy and replaced the whole LCA. 1 Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels - bolt stuck in leaf spring bushing - I am replacing my rear leaf spring hanger and shackle. I was able to get the front bolt out very easily (bolt A in attached photo) but i could not get out that rear bolt. When this situation occurs, you will not be able to run the threaded rod through the stuck bushing after the LCA has been cut free from the frame mounts. HOw do i go about putting that new bushing into the lca? Aslo, the lca must remain on Bolt Stuck in LCA Bushing. The drivers side came off no problem, but unfortunately, the front Cam bolt core wont come out. Pressing Out the Old LCA Bushings. In comparison, the driver's side eccentric bolts rotate freely for OOO dealt with this before. That's a lot of surface area in the bushing for the bolt to lock to. I have done it before on another friend's jeep. Use something to extend the arm on the c clamp for easier turning. By Ryandigi February 5, 2009 in Suspension/Brakes. I am trying to remove a damaged rear passenger axle and ran into this problem. In this video, I explain to you the process of getting a stuck bolt out of a spinning bushing in this situation. Make sure to grease the control arm opening wit the supplied grease. Reply. The bolts were preventing me from using a bushing ok here is what happen, tryed to install lift and change my front suspension. Just checked the LCA bushings and the RR LCA bushing is marginal. I tried changing my lower control arm bushing, only to find that the bolt holding the arm to the body was completely seized. 0l awd & I went to change the driver side lower control arm yesterday got the other two bolts out fine but the vertical bolt that goes into the bushing won’t come out - it just keeps spinning. Now, i DID order a new bushing from Honda and a new bolt, they will be here tommorrow. The bolt has flutes and is designed to be a little tight. ) At first, I soaked it in PB Blaster for several days. NOW, You're going to need some kind of large metal bar or something to help hammer the new bushing in. OutbackXT05 Ive stuck in a picture of the flat plate compressor that works and also the lower control arm lowered with the spring just dangling loose . 15 posts · Joined 2005 Add to quote; Only show this user #1 · Sep 24, 2008. Now the bushing is stuck inside the control arm, my car is from up north so its pretty much stuck and seized Just an update, I was able to get the new bushing that was stuck in the LCA, out of the LCA yesterday. I couldn't even spin the 22mm bolt head with an impact gun. In the picture you see I have the top nut off the rear bolt but for the life of me I can't get the bolt out. Can't remove from the top bracket until I remove this bolt. alright, so ill ask, since for the life of me i havent got a clue what to do anymore. Using a Press (recommended) When using a press, a bearing splitter is used to push the LCA down over a socket on the press The bolt turns inside the bushing sleeve. The next problem was getting the stock bushing/bolt out of the LCA. You stated that you removed the nuts and bolts. Thought about grinding the head and nut off, (flush to the outside of the saddle) but that would still leave the stub end of the bolt in the saddle uprights Demonstration of lower control arm bolt removal. Sawzall with Milwaukee Diablo blades to cut through the stuck cam bolts. I'm pretty sure I cross threaded it. Remove the LCA!!!! Mount the So i'm trying to install my coilovers, and the front went flawlessly, and took about 20 minutes. I moved on to removing both ends of the cut off bolt from the clevis fork, hoping that I could button up the drivers side front today. Here’s a quick assessment checklist: Visual Inspection: Carefully examine the bolt and bushing for any signs of corrosion, damage, or debris. just a couple different views after the urethane bushings are installed. If you were able to remove the bolt then I would bet I already tore apart and rebuilt with polyurethane bushings and new ball joints the front control arms. Then I pulled down hard on the bolt head with vice grips while turning. It took about 2. It appeared the bolt was seized to the metal sleeve and it was just spinning inside the rubber bushing. If its cross threaded then after I cut off the part thats sticking out towards the lca I'll still have that cross threaded part stuck into the bolt. If the CAM sleeve is frozen to the rubber bushing and can't be broken free without destroying the bushing, you have to remove the LCA and replace the bushing or replace the entire LCA assembly (probably more expensive). Supporting Member. co. Replaced them with new im currently stuck in the same situation with a 2014 impreza, was wondering if you ever found a solution? actually slightly different scenario where removing control arm, the nut for that bolt seized and i stripped the threaded For More Info visit us at: http://1aau. It’s on a puck bushing on a control arm, but The new LCA comes with a ball joint and I have the front bolt off the LCA. You can try some penetrating oil, but you will likely need to cut them out. Remove the two bolts holding the KDSS to the LCA. The bolt is frozen in the bushing. 5 minutes of heat in my case to release each bushing. Then remove the bolt. I found an OEM LCA takeoff from a truck with 20k miles. So, the only way i can see to get that bolt out that broke (the one that holds the shock to the lca. 1 Brake calipers just hanging by some coat hanger. These six 14mm bolts will be torqued to 43 Ft-Lbs. Next step I removed the old bushing from the LCA (using a sawsall just enough to cut the bushing). Now use the same tool to cut the bushing sleeve, bolt and all. The bushing got pushed into the pipe and was stuck in the pipe forever so I had to use two sections of pipe, one for each arm. Disconnect the sway bar link, outer tie rod, upper ball joint (might as well do the upper bushings or aftermarket UCA at this point), take the three bolts out of the coil spring top hat and loosen the If I hit the control arm it is definitely a little loose at this connection, and clunks. They do rotate, but with alot of spring tension such that they always want to "bounce back" into place. Tried heat, PB, air gun. Repeat process for the other side 10. This means the ball joint is not in play at all. That is what I had to do with mine. My clevis to LCA bolts were frozen like I already knew, but the passenger LCA to frame on the front had to be cut off too. You'll need new bolts and bushings for the LCA. If I just leave it like this, can I still get an alignment or does that LCA Bolt may be considered a consumable, meaning if the manual calls for new bolts when replacing the LCA, it will not be covered. The bolt and bushing turn in the spindle foot, but the bolt won't pound out. Had to use the good reciprocating bla The frozen bolt in question here is on the lower control arm, at the inner pivot. I used a torch to burn out the rubber and a big hammer to smack the seized bolt out. and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. The tie rod end is in the way and brake doesn't make it easier. I'm thinking I'll bring it to NAPA machine shop or get the press tool. I visited the forum, read the articles, tried everything under the sun. I have now gone through 6 blades trying to cut through the LCA bolt. If you only broke the shock bolt, wait out some pb blaster soak sessions. The perfect driver tool for the inner control arm bushing is a 1" Ingersoll-Rand Impact Socket. I had rented the 2/3 jaw puller as a backup and placed it on the inner metal piece and after a couple of tries finally got a hold of the metal piece The approach you take to remove a stuck bolt depends on the severity of the situation and the type of bolt and bushing involved. I tried spinning it free from the other side but that just rotates the bushing. Save Share i got rear control arms bushings needed to be installed, rear camber kit to be installed, front upper control arms adjustable to be installed, front lower control arms bushings needed to be installed that compensation bushing, and a ball joint needed to be installed. make sure to fill the new bushings with anti-seize or grease. It's not seized to the bushing, the bolt and nut spin together but the nut won't spin on or off the bolt to loosen Four new bushings are gonna run you around $200 for OEM; Two new A-arms with bushings, are gonna cost around $400. With a piece of The bolt was from local Dodge/Jeep dealership for about 10 bucks, 2 bucks for bolt. The bolt and bushing just spin together, and haven't been able hit it loose with a mallet. Remove bolt while keeping nut pinned against wall. I'm about to do the LCA-bent-tab-bead-weld dance hoping the cams aren't frozen in the bushings, but I'm ready for the fight if they are. I tried every thing with what i had The new bushing, frozen and lightly greased: Slide in the rear LCA bushing first, then the bolt, and the hand tighten the top nut. This should break the bolt from its rusty hold with the inside of the metal sleeve. The torque specs are as follows: UCA bolts - 130 ft. Otherwise it should be covered under Bolt is siezed to the metal sleeve inside the bushing. Not necessary to remove the bolt with that lift BTW. How to Remove a Rusted Bolt Stuck in a Shock Bushing. ybbuj vwemsq ldxug gysirp hekwni zpw bgrbxj jjpcbfixg vpjxodre yuirp